The
term “tea leaves” first appeared in Chinese written records somewhere around
3,000 years ago. An ancient text called the “Er-Ya” (爾雅),
which was a dictionary of sorts, stated that “jia”(檟)
was a bitter tea, “ku tu” (苦荼). “Ku” (苦) is the
Chinese character for bitter and “tu” (荼) was the
controversial word for many different plants. As the word “tu” was used
throughout different texts, sometimes poetic other times
mundane, it’s difficult to know exactly when it was used for tea, referring at
other times to sow thistle, certain flowers, and other spices in cooking.
Wherever one stands with regards to this etymological debate, it is clear that
the word “tu,” as well as several other words like “chai” and “ming,” evolved
into the character for tea or were used thusly in certain times and places as
early as the Zhou Dynasty. For quite some time, there were many characters and
ways of saying “tea,” depending on the region and era. Then, during the Tang Dynasty,
all the earlier characters for tea were abandoned, and a new character was
created to replace them. This was done by modifying the character “tu” (荼).
The lower part “he” (禾)
was changed to “mu” (木)—meaning
wood. The new character “cha” (茶) has remained the Chinese term for tea
ever since. The various pronunciations of the character “tea” spread far and wide.
The Mandarin pronunciation of the character, as “cha,” spread overland to the north
and west of Yunnan. Tea is, for example, called “chai” in India, Greece,
Russia, etc. Another pronunciation of tea as “tey” followed a second sea-route
from Xiamen of Fujian Province. The Western sailors that stopped in Xiamen and
other local ports would adopt the way tea was said in the local Fujian dialect;
and “tey” would later become “tea” in English. In contemplating the character
for tea, one can corroborate the extent
to which ancient Chinese revered tea as a sacred plant. The radical for grass is
drawn at the top, with trees at the bottom and man in between. Perhaps a more
mundane interpretation of this would be that
the character refers simply to any edible leaf. And actually, the word “cha”
does refer to any leaf steeped in water; and even teas that we
would today call “herbal” or “tisane” were still considered “cha” by Chinese
doctors and tea sages, as well as more mundane applications related to culinary
pursuits. There are therefore other plants, in Yunnan and elsewhere, that
ancient mendicants were also utilizing to heal and commune with Nature. I have
drank a few kinds of lichens in such a manner, for example. The roots of the
character for tea date back beyond the Tang Dynasty to the Han Dynasty (206 bce-220ce)
or even earlier, and have deeper elements
if one but looks for them. Calligraphers often have the ability to see beyond
the characters to the deeper essence hidden in the words. The ancient Taoists
invented several scripts that were only legible to initiates,
and often resembled the leaves of trees, ripples of water, or even animal
footprints—all of which was intentional, as the script was derived from intense
contemplation of Nature. One of my venerable tea teachers, Huang Chan Fang, is
a “tea doctor” in every sense of the word. If any artist, teacher, or tea
master is connected to the pulse of those ancient Chinese healers, it is he. He
spent many years searching for the spirit of the character “cha.”
Last year, he made the drawing shown here. One can almost immediately
recognize the poignancy of painting tea in this way. It is the perfect
representation of man in tune with Nature. The person isn’t just climbing the
tree to pick leaves, he is living within the tree itself. Many Chinese
characters have stories—pictographic lessons hidden deep in the ways they have
been drawn over time. For me, this drawing of “tea” captures all the majesty of
those lost ages when tea, as an aspect of Nature, and Man were in harmony.
Furthermore, the symbol of a human in the tree is a very ancient and deep
picture, representing the axis mundi around
which the earth rotates—the center of the universe. Tea can root us in the
ground, as well as free us beneath the sky. There is much in the etymology of
the character for tea that I find inspiring. I am moved by the simplicity of
drawing a man between leaves, roots, and the trunk of a tree. I once read a
Native American myth that told of a warrior that turned into a tree when his
people died; first his arms became branches, then his feet slowly moved
beneath
the earth and extended his spirit into roots, and finally he was a tree left to
watch over the land he had been born on. The metaphor of becoming Nature is
also expressed, to me, in this interpretation of the
character for tea. The idea is that we also can live tea, becoming a part of
Nature rather than standing outside of it as an observer; and that such a
“becoming” is really a return to our original state.
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